Red Sea Wrecks

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The Ulysses

Ulysses

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1871
310ft long,
16th August 1887
North-east face of Small Gubal Island
28m at stern, stretching up to broken remains on the reef in 4m
15m, variable
Can be strong along the reef, check direction before diving

Alfred Holt was a trained railway engineer who brought his boiler and steam engine expertise to the sea when he and his brother Philip founded the Ocean Steamship Company.  Alfred designed and built ships that were equally as fast and capacious as other vessels afloat, but fitted them with his own design of engine that was far more economical on fuel.  Ultimately Holt ships would earn the nickname of the China Boats as they were able to make the trip from Britain to China without coaling.
In 1887 the Ulysses was under the command of Captain Bremner, experienced and capable skipper though remarkably he had never been through the Red Sea.  She loaded a mixed cargo in London in the late summer and Captain Bremner took her on an uneventful passage through the Mediterranean and the Suez Canal, then out into the open Red Sea..
In the early hours of 16th August 1887 Ulysses struck Gubal Seghir, a large island well above sea-level and not very far at all from the Ashrafi lighthouse they must have seen when they steamed past minutes before. 
An initial inspection of the ship was hopeful.  Little real damage seemed to have been done and the pumps were more than keeping pace with the water entering the hull. Knowing this was a busy sea-route Captain Bremner decided to wait for assistance from a passing steamer.  Before dawn the British registered steamer Kerbela duly appeared and her master was asked to make speed to Suez and send help.
For three days the crew of the Ulysses worked to keep their ship afloat and were confident she could simply be towed off once the cargo had been offloaded and her hull lightened. 
UlyssesOn 20th August HMS Falcon appeared, along with a pair of salvage barges.  The weather had already changed, the wind was rising and the swell was getting bigger, so work immediately began to transfer cargo from Ulysses to the barges. The crews of both ships and barges worked together to speed the process, until the swell became so big it threatened the ability of the barges to ride them and they had to be moved into the shelter of Bluff Point for safety. 
The work of transferring the cargo didn’t stop, though now it needed to be manhandled across the reef top and out to the waiting barges.
After nearly a fortnight of relentless grinding on the edge of the reef Ulysses’ back broke.  As the stern of the Ulysses went down she began to slide off the reef and was abandoned to sink, though her bowsprit remained out of the water for some time.  Despite the arduous working conditions both barges had been crammed with cargo and space had to be found on the deck of the Navy vessel for more.
Ulysses is less often dived than she deserves, in part because of the current which can run strongly down the reef.  This can be dealt with simply by entering the water on the correct side of the wreck to allow you to drift with it as you descend, and once on the wreck you’ll be sheltered.
The deepest part of the wreck is the stern in 28m.  Her rudder is hard over, as though the helmsman had spun the wheel hard to avoid a collision with the reef, and her single prop is clearly visible.
Swim around her stern and the open lattice-work of iron from which she was built comes immediately into view, sloping up the reef, along with an enamelled bathtub sitting on the seabed Her propshaft is clearly visible in the hull near the stern and the iron frames from which she was built are very clear.
The aftermost half of Ulysses remains intact,  running up the reef slope toward the surface and canted over to lie on her port side until you reach her engine.  Everything forward of there is broken and flattened.
You don’t need to penetrate the hull to see the wreck, but be careful if you do, she’s totally encrusted in life.  When you’re forced out of the wreck just behind the engine block continue up until you’re effectively on the reef and turn to finish your dive drifting with the current.  The RIB will be waiting to pick you up when you surface.
Ulysses SMIf you dive Ulysses in July she turns purple where the Sergeant Majors lay their eggs, at other time of year you’ll simply see the wreck through a shifting cloud of these stripy little fish.

Written and photographed by Mike Ward

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