The Brothers Islands
It seems that wherever there is diving taking place there are a couple
of rocks or islands that someone has imaginatively named the Brothers
or the Sisters!! But there are only 2 Brothers that need to be
considered as far as current fuelled, pelagic sighting, wreck exploring
diving goes. They are the Big and Little Brothers sited 60 miles
East of El Quesir in the Egyptian Red Sea. These two specks are
accessible only by liveaboards and are the only solid ground that can
be seen from horizon to horizon. In Arabic they are known
as “El Akhawein Kebir”, The Big Brother and “El Akhawein
Soraya”, The Small Brother. They both have the reputation
for challenging diving, with strong northerly currents ands rough seas. Both
of the islands have northern plateaus and it is here that the current
splits, creating a nutrient rich environment attractive to Sharks,
Barracudas, Trevallies, Tuna and even the occasional Manta. Apart
from the plateaus, the rest of the diving on the Brothers takes place
on steep walls.
Big Brother
When diving big brother you can combine magnificent wall diving along
with some superb wreck dives. At 400 m in length the island needs
a few dives to cover the area. It is easy to get lost in the shark
action where frequent sightings of Grey Reefs, Hammerheads, Threshers,
silver tips and white tips all feed off the smaller reef fish. The
walls are covered in stunning soft coral, anemone and hard corals.
There are often barracuda's, jacks and tuna's as well as the large
Napoleon Wrasse.
Namibia.
The British cargo ship Numidia was built in Glasgow in early 1901.
A relatively large vessel, she displaced 6,399 gross registered tons
and was powered by a 3 cylinder triple expansion steam engine capable
of providing a top speed of 10 Knots. She was 137.4m long, 16.7m wide
and had a draught of 9.2m. Early 1901 saw her complete a maiden
voyage to Calcutta and back; unfortunately this was to be her only
full trip. Mid 1901 she was again on her way down to British
colonies in the Far East. She was carrying 7000 tonnes of cargo
and a crew of 97.
At 1am on the 20th of July the light on Big Brothers island was sighted
off the port bow. Observing the bearing, the Captain altered course
again and informed the "officer of the watch" this would
take the ship over one mile to the west of the Island. He then left
the Bridge leaving instructions to be called when the Light was abeam.
At about 2.10am the Master was awoken by the shock of his ship crashing
onto rocks. Hurrying to the bridge, he found his ship hard aground
on Big Brothers Island - almost directly below the Lighthouse!
After two hours of trying to get off the rocks the engines were stopped.
By this time the ship was taking on considerable water although the
pumps were coping. At 7.30am dispatches were sent to Suez for urgent
assistance and most of the crew were landed on the Island. Other vessels
then arrived and every effort was made to refloat the Numidia without
success. Eventually realising his vessel was lost, the Master allowed
his crew to be rescued - although he remained on the island for a further
7 weeks - during which he supervised the salvage of most of the cargo
before the Numidia finally sank.
The Numidia slid back off the tip of the North Plateau. It is sitting
almost vertically with its stern resting on a narrow step, being the
only thing keeping it from sliding into the abyss. It is a zodiac drop,
usually directly on top of the wreck. Often the first thing a
diver notices as he descends is a large pair of rolling stock wheels,
part of a large proportion of the cargo going out to service the railway
building projects in India. These are in amongst the broken up
bow section at a depth of 10m. From there it is a short swim
along, or in this case, down to the main superstructure. This
is the most interesting part of the wreck with engine rooms, lifeboat
davit arms, corridors, open engine room hatches. It is an easy
wreck to penetrate with many entry and exit points. Keeping in
mind that the ship was well salvaged before it sank there are not many
items left in the many rooms and cabins down either side. It
is worth getting down into the engine room to see the piles of coal
still stacked up against the boilers as if a stoker is going to come
along any minute and fire up that huge engine which has sat silent
for over 100 years.
At a depth of 40m is the midships hold. This looms as a huge
black hole disappearing into the bowels of the ship. Beyond this
the main mast rises from the deck at a depth of 52m and this is the
limit for recreational divers. It is possible with correct equipment
to explore down to the back handrail at a depth of 80m.
Many divers rate the Thistlegorm as the best wreck in the world, usually
due to the incredible historical artifacts still in her holds. But
if wrecks were to be scored on coral and fish life alone, the Numidia
must be up near the top of the list. 100 years of sitting in
current has encouraged an incredible profusion of life to grow all
over her. An amazing dive, even if sometimes a fight against
the current to actually stay on the wreck is necessary!
The Aida
Literally 50m or so around the corner from the wreck of the Numidia
another ship met its demise in the rough seas that are common around
the Brothers.
The Aida was built in France and launched in 1911. She displaced 1,428
gross registered tonnes and was powered by a single 3 Cylinder triple
expansion engine capable of providing a top speed of 9 Knots. Her dimensions
were; 75.1m x 9.7m with a draught of 7m.
On the sheltered south-east facing coast of Big Brothers Island, is
an old jetty used by the Egyptian soldiers stationed on the island
for up to two months at a time. Naturally, they require a constant
re-supply of fresh water and provisions in addition to a changeover
of personnel every so often.
On 15 September 1957, the Captain of the Aïda was tasked to exchange
military personnel on Big Brothers Island. There were heavy storms
that day and it would seem that, despite the sea state, he still decided
to go ahead - and in so doing he struck the rocks. Almost immediately,
the Aïda began to sink and the Captain had little option but to
abandon ship.
A Tugboat responded immediately and took off 77 personnel with the
remainder, including the Captain, all getting safely to shore. In the
meantime, the Aïda drifted a short distance to the northwest before
her bows finally embedded themselves into the reef.
Although a much smaller wreck than the Numidia, the Aida has its own
charm. When it sank, it slid down the steep coral wall coming
to rest on a sandy ledge with the stern in 60m. It is a deeper
dive starting at 30m. Because it came to rest here on the more
sheltered side of the reef, the soft corals have multiplied. With
a torch it is possible to see the wonderful colours of red, orange,
and purple that characterize these corals. The wooden decking
has disappeared leaving easy access to the holds. The lifeboat
davit arms are home to some friendly lionfish that don’t seem
to mind posing for the cameras.
Little Brother
Just 900m away from the Big Brother is the Little Brother. Imagine
the tip of a very large underwater mountain rising from a depth of
over 800m and this is what makes the Little Brother an amazing place
to dive. Again the Northern plateau makes for the most exciting
diving with a pinnacle down at 40m being a common place for different
types of sharks to come and be cleaned. The most common sharks
are the Grey Reefs which circle at around 25m seeming to be waiting
for their turn on the cleaning station. In winter it is common
to see Thresher Sharks with their beautiful long tales also taking
advantage of the ever-busy cleaner wrasse.
Down both sides of the Little Brother are steep
walls full of hard and soft corals. On the southeastern corner is one of the best Gorgonian
Fan fields that can be seen in the Red Sea. It is a vertical
field of fans in superb condition with many Longnose Hawkfish peering
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